Prologue
Chihayaakasaka Village is a village in the mountains of the Kongozan (1125meters high) located in Minami-kawachi. A population of 6,677 people (as of Oct. 2006) lives in this mountainous area in the southeastern part of Osaka. It is just a 90-minute drive away from Osaka city or a 20-minute bus ride from the Kintetsu Tondabayashi station.
This village is famous to many Japanese middle-aged and over for Kusunoki Masashige, better known as ‘Nanko-san', a general in the early 1300's who was born here. He took Imperial orders from Emperor Godaigo and raised an army here at Shimo-Akasaka Castle. He appears in "Taiheiki" and NHK's period drama which made him famous among the viewers.
"A traditionally noble Japanese countryside" is the beauty of this area. The fresh green leaves of the trees, the winding paths between the rice terraces and houses with thatched roofs; simple elements but that's what makes the scenery so precious. Not only the scenery but you can also enjoy nature's gifts from the fresh vegetables picked from the farm which are sold at morning markets, tofu and konjac made from the high-quality spring water of Kongozan and enjoy fishing rainbow-trout upstream of the Chihaya River. Come see for yourself, how beautiful a "Rural Osaka" can be like.
The local people refer to Kongozan as "Kogoze". To reach the top, you have two choices – either enjoy a 60 to 80-minute hike, or hop on the village owned rope-way that will take you up in 6 minutes. Enjoy the outdoor life by camping, having a barbeque or staying at one of the bungalows at the Forest for the Residents of Osaka prefecture, Chihaya Park Area. At the center of the grounds is the Museum of Nature and Astronomy where you can do bird watching, learn about various plants or observe the stars with a little help from the volunteers and staff who are "Kongozan experts". If you are up for hiking, take a walk in the woods for about 30 minutes and you'll reach the peak of the Kongozan and become true friends with "Kogoze". After you've had plenty of fun with nature, relax yourself by taking a hot bath in an ancient hinoki-buro (cypress bath) at the village-run Konanso.
So? Are you interested in finding out more about the history, abundance of nature and the people who live in such a beautiful area? Come and find out more about a village that is like a picture book.
Chihayaakasaka's hero, Nanko-san
The most popular figure which represents Chihayaakasaka is the general in the mid to late 1330's; Kusunoki Masashige. He is the hero of the village and people call him Nanko-san. There is a statue of Nanko-san at Chihaya Elementary School and the school's crest is even one that resembles the family crest of the Kusunoki's. And in spring they even have a Kusunoki Matsuri (festival). So if you want to find out about this village, we'll have to start off by studying Nanko-san first.
The guardian deity of Nanko-san
The Takemikumari Shrine is about a 20-minute ride on the Kongo bus from Kintetsu Tondabayashi station. Hop off the bus and climb up the steep hill and you will see two torii gates. Both are gateways to separate shrines that are related to Kusunoki Masashige. Climb the higher hill which is on the left and at the top of the stone stairs is the outer shrine. There we met Mr. Okayama Hiromi whose ancestors have taken care of the shrine since the last days of the Tokugawa Shogunate. We were able to learn about the shrine from him.
The main shrine was built in 1334 by Nanko-san (Kusunoki Masashige) by the imperial orders of Emperor Godaigo. What is so special about it is how uniquely the three shrines with cypress-thatched roofs are connected by a corridor. This shrine is designated as a cultural asset of national importance. So for protection and also because God is enshrined in the main shrine, visitors are only allowed to enter up until the front shrine.
The front shrine was once burnt down by Oda Nobunaga. And what you see know was rebuilt by the village people who gathered whatever wood they could find around them. That is why the pillars aren't perfect and have damages in places.
Kikusui (Chrysanthemum and river) is the crest for this shrine which is also the family crest for the Kusunoki's. The chrysanthemum is the Imperial Crest granted to Masashige by Emperor Godaigo. And the river represents this shrine which the Kusunoki's worshiped as their guardian deity; the shrine is considered as the God of Water and is in charge of the division of water.
Birthplace of Nanko-san
Nanko-san was born here in 1294. And to commemorate it is a monument with the words "The birthplace of Nanko" built by Ookubo Toshimichi in 1878 while he was on his journey to visit historical remains. The monument is located about 15 minutes away from the Takemikumari Shrine. You can enjoy a peaceful walk through the fields on your way.
Right next to the monument is the Chihihayaakasaka Village Museum of Local History. Here you can observe objects relating to Nanko-san and also learn more about the history and the village itself. When you step out of the museum, walk for 2 or 3 minutes and on your right is the cairn of the "Well Supplying the Water for the First Bath of Nanko". It still supplies water - the same well-water that Nanko-san used.
Shimo-Akasaka Castle
The Shimo-Akasaka Castle Ruins was designated as the country's historical site in 1934. It stands on a hill behind the Chihayaakasaka Public Junior High School gym. The castle was built by Nanko-san to fight the troops of the Kamakura Shogunate but lost. Two years later he succeeded in his fight for revenge and to recapture the castle. Study the guide board and stone monument that stands on top of the stone wall, and then enjoy the beautiful panoramic view of the terraced paddy fields of Shimo-akasaka that spreads below.
Go deeper...
You can reach the ruins of Kami-Akasaka Castle in about forty minutes on foot from the Village Museum of Local History and enjoy the fantastic view of the Osaka Plains, Awaji and Akashi. The Kami-Akasaka Castle and Chihaya Castle were both built by Nanko-san, after he lost the battle and Shimo-Akasaka Castle. And within the site of the ruins of the Chihaya Castle is the Chihaya Shrine where the Nanko Festival is held annually on the closest Sunday to May 25. This day, May 25, is the day when Nanko-san died in battle.
The Gorinto Yosete-zuka (burial mound for the attacking force) and Mikata-zuka (burial mound for supporting force) was also built by Nanko-san in memory of those who lost their lives in the Chihaya Battle. He made the Yosete-zuka larger than the Mikata-zuka and also purposely did not use the word Teki (enemy) in respect to the force he fought with. This shows what kind of man he was.
The Houkento was built to commemorate the 600th year after Nanko-san's death which is now a popular site for cherry blossom viewing.
Strolling around in a farm village
What makes Chihayaakasaka Village so special is that you can hear the river flowing, you can see magnificent long-standing houses and beautiful terraced paddy fields. Look at how clever humans can be against nature's challenges. And enjoy really good food too!
The terraced paddy fields
In 1999, the terraced paddy fields that spread below the ruins of Shimo-Akasaka Castle were chosen as one of "Japan's Best 100 Terraced Paddy Fields" by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. Tanada or terraced fields are a solution that humans came up with to start a rice field in a place that lacks in flat land and is surrounded by mountains. In spring you can see the sparkling fields filled with water that reflect the sunlight and in autumn the ears of the rice kind of swift in the autumn breeze as if they were making a wave. Since the scene is so beautiful many amateur/pro camera-persons as well as the general public come and take pictures. Although the terrace fields create a marvelous site, it is hard work for the farmers. Because of its landform, tractors and other farming equipment cannot be brought in, so everything has to be done by hand.
Morning markets
Below the terrace fields, you can see people gathering at a facility with a green vinyl roof. What is it? It is where the markets are held only on Saturdays and Sundays. About 30 of the registered farms in the village sell their fresh products directly from the farm. Rice, flowers, potatoes, onions, cucumbers, eggplants, mulukhiya, etc. All are sold in bags that show the farmer's name. They are sold rather cheap, like 100yen, 200yen and 300yen a bag. The farmers advise the customers to come at around 6:00am because that is when most of the customers come and you still have choices. If you have plans to hike up the Kongozan, you can buy them first and leave your purchases with them and pick them up afterwards. Another tip is that after lunch there are not that much products left for you to buy, so you'd better get an early start.
Tofu shops
According to the village office as of October, 2006, the population of the village is 6,677 people and 2,318 households. Within the population, 750 people are engaged in farming. It is said that until 1955 there were a lot of water mills along the Chihaya River and there were many people making rice, grinding soybeans and making freeze-dried bean curd. Unfortunately as time passed things have changed and there are less engaged in the industry.
At its peak there were nearly 60 Tofu manufacturers in the village but there are only a few that remain. One of them is "Matsumasa" which is located near the start of the hiking trail of Kongozan. In the mid 1990's Matsumoto Masachika-san restarted the factory and his son Kosei-san is now in charge. According to the death register of the Matsumoto's, the family started manufacturing Tofu in 1777. And in an exhibition held in the Meiji Era, their Koori-doufu or freeze-dried bean curd won a prize. Currently, their Tofu costs 350yen per block which is a bit expensive but it is worth the price. It has a rich taste so eating it plain is enjoyable enough. Matsumoto-san recommends having it with a dash of salt rather than soy sauce so that it won't interfere too much with the Tofu's flavor itself. Some great fans make a line before they even open on weekends. Besides Tofu they have black soybeans, Hirousu and soy milk. They even have a cafeteria next door where you can enjoy their Tofu.
Go deeper...
From the farm produce stand, head towards the mountains along the national road and you will see a fancy building on your right. This is "La Foresta (Minami-kawachi Forestry Center)" where wood crafts and furniture are displayed and sold. The caf is specially opened on weekends. You can enjoy a gorgeous view of the terraced fields while you enjoy your "Tanada Rice Curry". Or you can go upstream the Chihaya River on a ropeway and right before the Chihaya Station is the Chihayagawa Trout Fishing Spot. You could rent your equipment and it is easy to fish even for beginners. After you're done fishing you can bring home your fish or take them to the kitchen within the facility and have them cook it for you. If you visit in October or November you can go tangerine picking at one of the tangerine farms in the village.
Enjoying The Great Outdoors
Chihayaakasaka Village is surrounded by the Kongozan (1125meters high) which is referred to as "Osaka's Roof". At the peak of the mountain is the Kongo-Ikoma-Kisen Quasi-National Park that has a camping ground, a broad picnic site, a promenade through beautiful flowers and wild grass, a very unique nature experience program and other outdoor amusements.
Reach The Top of Osaka!
Take the bus from the Kintetsu Tondabayashi station for about 40 minutes and get off at the Chihaya Ropeway Mae stop and climb up the hill for about 10 minutes and you will reach the Chihaya Station of the ropeway. In 1956, Chihaya Village and Akasaka Village merged and became Chihayaakasaka Village. Ten years later, this village-run ropeway was built and it has been working fine ever since. You can enjoy a 6-minute midair walk to the Kongozan Station which is 975meters above sea level. You'll be traveling over the beautiful green carpet of the wild forest – cherry blossoms in spring, fresh green leaves in summer, the autumn colors and silver frost in winter add a nice touch to the scenery. Just be careful in what you wear because the temperature is about 6 degrees (Celsius) lower at the top than it is in the city.
Diamonds in The Sky...
A natural park of 13 hectares including a log-house-like resting spot, barbeque space, bungalow and camping grounds – all are a part of the Osaka Prefectural Citizens' Forest, Chihaya Park Area. And one of the main facilities is the Chihaya Nature and Astronomy Museum that was built in 2001. The building is environmentally friendly for it has wind-power generation, an eco-roof and a bio-toilet. On the first floor, toys made out of acorns and wood are exhibited and you can also learn about the animals, wildlife, insects and birds that inhabit in Kongozan from books and other materials. All are free and opened to all visitors. Upstairs is a study space equipped with log chairs where nature workshops are held.
Go even higher to the roof deck and you will find a huge astronomical telescope with a lens that has a diameter of 400 millimeters. Aside from mid winter, a star gazing gathering is held few times a month. If you are planning to participate don't forget to book a bungalow, camp site or a room at the village-run accommodation at the top of the mountain because the gathering is held at night and you won't be able to catch the ropeway back home until the morning.
The participants, mostly families and groups, gather at the roof deck at about 7:30pm. There are no neon lights that get in your way – just a dark, black carpet with stars glittering above you. A curator is there to guide you through the night sky. One look through the telescope and you'll see the beautiful diamonds sparkling all over. The excitement spreads through the whole group regardless of the age.
The museum also has programs during the day to feel and learn about the wild birds, insects and wild grass of the Kongozan on weekends as well.
Go deeper...
The Konanso has a traditional cypress bath which can be used by guests spending the night as well as day guests. You can enjoy a nice meal at the restaurant too. Also there is an observation deck 7 minutes away from the museum where you can enjoy a marvelous view of the Yamato and Osaka plains. If the air is clear enough you even have a chance to see the Kansai International Airport and Akashi-kaikyo Bridge.
Climbing to the top of Osaka
Now, are you eager to see what it's like at the top of Osaka? Every year more than one million people climb Kongozan – that means it is as popular as Mt. Fuji. As much as it is a popular mountain for hikers, ever since the Kongozan Temporinji Temple was built in the later 7th century it has also been known as a place to practice religion.
To The Gateways of The Temple
There is a picnic field next to the museum and beside the resting spot is a path that leads you into the woods. From here it is 1.5km to the top of the mountain; about 30 minutes on foot. On your way enjoy the cute little flowers that you will be passing by. Eventually you will reach the "Ichi-no-Torii" which is a fork in the road. If you go right you will be heading towards the Mizukoshi Toge and the Diamond Trail (Kongo-Katsuragi Nature Trail). If you choose to go straight, you will walk under the torii gate and reach the Katsuragi Shrine which is the mountaintop.
Katsuragi Shrine : the top of Kongozan
Kongozan was formally called Mt. Katsuragi or Takamayama. But after the Kongozan Temporinji Temple was built on the mountaintop the mountain was referred to by the first half of the temple's name and that is how it became "Kongozan".
The true peak of the mountain is 1,125 meters above sea level and that point is the Katsuragi-dake which is at the back of the Katsuragi Shrine."Hitokoto-no-nushi Ookami" is the God that is enshrined here. It is said that this God will meet your wish only if you make your wish in one phrase with a pure heart. So, go right ahead. After you clap your hands make your wish; don't forget your ‘pure heart'.
Katsuragi Shrine : Temporinji temple
Go down the stairs of Katsuragi Shrine and in about 5 minutes you'll see the Temporinji Temple on your right. The main shrine of the head quarters, Katsuragi Shugendo Dai Honzan, stands in silence surrounded by large cedar trees. The annual Dai Goma (large holy fire) is held on July 7 when Buddhist monks from all over Japan gather. After you have visited the main shrine, stop by the Gyoujya-dou where the sorcerer who built the shrine is enshrined, the Fudo statue, below the stone stairs and the 200-year old weeping cherry trees.
Go deeper...
The Houken-to where the sword of Ootou-no Miya is buried was built by Emperor Godaigo during the Ashikaga Era. It is located near the Katsuragi Shrine. And at the Fukuishi, you stack small stones or pebbles to wish for happiness. This is because it is believed that the guardian God of happiness and profit is enshrined here. And on your way home, if you want to relax, stop by and take a hot bath at the village-runned Konanso.