
The center of Osaka where high rise buildings stand closely, thronged with crowds. Go into a narrow alley, you will see a quiet place of old town houses and row houses for living which escaped war damage. The Karahori area, on the west side of Uemachi plateau where the ancient Naniwa Palace was, near Tanimachi 6 chome. There used to be waterless outer moat built by Hideyoshi Toyotomi to protect Osaka Castle. Recently local architects modified the row houses and opened sundry goods stores and cafés one after another, which prompted many young people to visit. Unique shops were created in Nakazaki-cho, a few minutes’ walk to the east from the flourishing Umeda in Kita, using traditional town houses and shops. Stylish signboards are placed in the back alley where the elderly stroll and cats take a nap. There is a downtown atmosphere next to buildings. Time passes slowly. Enjoy relaxing shopping.
A few minutes walk from Matsuyamachi Station, located on a slope, “Ren” is a stylish mansion with a courtyard. A renovated house transplanted from Kobe in the Taisho era, it opened in February, 2003. Go through the dignified gate, you will see a chocolate shop using Belgian couverture, sundry goods shops, rental shop spaces with a weekly fee of ¥5,000 for 3.3 sq.m., etc. There is a relaxing coffee shop where you can enjoy coffee forgetting the time, and a Kimono fitting class upstairs. It is a mixed atmosphere of old and new.
TEL: 06-6767-1906
The shop of Calen Blosso, 3-4 minutes walk to the north from “Ren”, is modified from a row house. The display window is especially bright. It is a Kimono accessory store with a long history, established in 1926, here in Tanimachi 6 chome (former Nishinigiwaicho, Minami-ku, Osaka City). Famous for bags using the technique and sense of making zori sandals, zori-style sandals, etc. There are many overseas fans of the familiar zebra pattern and functional design. Well-stocked items such as accessories made with Nishijin brocade, etc. Good for souvenirs.
TEL: 06-6191-5232
Maybe a good idea to drop in “Shibahashi” chadougu (items for tea ceremony) shop between Calen Blosso and “Moe”. Even if you don’t do tea ceremony, there are tea bowls gracing the shelves full of seasonal feeling, a tea set bag to carry the entire tea ceremony apparatus, a basket in which to put the items, etc. It is really fun just to look at them. Established in 1950, there are shops in each department store in the Kansai area. Well stocked from items for lessons to special pieces by Chadougu artists. It must be a shop you want to frequent if you do tea ceremony.
TEL: 06-6761-7005, FAX: 06-6763-3028
“I know Ryunosuke Akutagawa. But who is “Naoki” of the “Naoki Award”?” If you want to know, visit Sanjugo Naoki Memorial in Town House Complex Cultural Facility “Moe” in Tanimachi 6 chome. Naoki was born in Andojicho here in the Karahori area in 1891. After writing a hit novel “Nangoku Taiheiki” based on an internal squabble of the Satsuma domain, he penned a wide range of works; historical novels, popular novels, essays, etc, as a popular novelist. He was also known for his wild life style, and died young at 43 years of age in 1934. After his death, his friend Kan Kikuchi and others established the “Naoki Sanjugo Award”. Recently Toshizo Namba and Giichi Fujimoto, Naoki Award writers from Kansai, and other supporters opened the “Sanjugo Naoki Memorial”. Most of the interior is laid out with tatami mats associated with Naoki who preferred writing in lying down fashion. Exhibited are the writing desk he always used, letters and works in his own writing.
TEL: 06-6767-1906
Opened in 2002. Made by connecting two row houses over 90 years old which were just about to be torn down and renovating them by “Karahori Club”, organized by young architects and others who wanted “to revitalize the row houses and revitalize the town”. “Sou” is an organization of townspeople in Kamigata in Edo period. Inside the building where old pillars and walls are preserved, using the best of the sun catching the courtyard, there is something nostalgic here. The space has a calming effect. There are; a café gallery, a pet goods shop, a Kimono accessory shop, etc, revealing the characters of the shop owners.
TEL: 06-6767-1906
Karahori shopping street is a 800m street east to west between “Ren”, “Moe”, and “Sou”, i.e., Matsuyamachi-suji – Tanimachi-suji – Kamimachi-suji. It now has a unique catch phrase of “Haikarahori”. Actually it is a shopping street with a long history which enjoyed brisk business from the Meiji era to the pre-WWII era, and recovered quickly after WWII, suffering only slight damage from air raids. It ran the first sale with a lottery in the city and won popularity. There are traditional fresh food stores. It is an indispensable kitchen in the community. Row houses of early Showa period and small alleys remain in the environs. Going back and forth on the gentle slope is also fun.
TEL: Karahori Shopping Street Promotion Union 06-6762-8540
After going around the Karahori, let’s head out to another relaxing shopping area, Nakazakicho, 13 minutes subway ride from Tanimachi 6 chome Station via Tanimachi Line. 7-8 minutes walk from Chayamachi, trend dispatching point of Kita. Yet it is a quiet downtown area dotted with wooden row houses, apartment houses, public bath, cigarette stores, etc. A little signboard in the back alley catches the eye. Go further, and find “Hyotan-ya”, filled with old kimono, furniture, and antiques. It opened in a room in a building in 2000 when Nakazakicho did not attract attention like it does now. It is a popular store for connoisseurs. Shelves are heaped with meisen, everyday kimono for women before the WWII era, and obi sashes. You cannot help touching them, and will be surprised at their richness and colorfulness of their design and colors. The yarn-dyed silk feels smooth. Kimono from ¥8,000, obi from ¥5,000. Kimono accessories are also cute, such as a handmade hair accessory ¥800.
TEL: 06-6374-0175
“Salon de AmanTO”, a renovated wooden house over 100 years old is at the same time a café and community communication space where live performances and various classes are held. The concept is “a park where everybody from elderly to children can get together”. A well used pillar, courtyard in the back of the shop, green ivy on the wall at the entrance. A warm comfortable space where people can contact with people beyond their positions and generations, both tourists and residents. How about a little break after window shopping? Coffee and tea, both ¥200, cake & sweets ¥350.
Delicious new sense creative okonomiyaki! Noted all over Japan. Drop by at Fusaya honten Okonomiyaki restaurant.
At Nakazakicho, a “Flea Market” is held on the 1st Sunday of the month with the cooperation of more than 20 unique shops. Good buys such as antique, old books, homemade bread, sundry goods, accessories, clothes, etc. are displayed in front of the shops. Bustling with old and young, male and female! Each shop has a town map. TEL: Flea Market Operation Committee (Rakunomusi 06-6374-8933, Hanane 06-4802-8488, Chay Club 06-6292-2667)